In the beginning of August, on a hot weekend, a group of 7 intrepid hikers headed up to the North of Limpopo to hike the magical Soutpansberg. This seemingly inconspicuous mountain range is actually rather special. Apart from the fact it is running from East to West, as opposed to most mountain ranges in South Africa running North-South, it is also a biodiversity hotspot. It might not be as dramatically imposing as the Drakensberg, but it offers a wide range of vegetation types and an unusual high number of endemic species. On a single morning you could start in the forest, walk up through thickets to a plateau of grassland, then through woodland and end up with Fynbos. We had a lot in store for us. Despite all of this, it seems like the Soutpansberg is very much unknown and underappreciated.
Our group started on Friday at the Medike Nature Reserve’s Campsite. Quite a bit of a luxury actually, as I was personally mostly prepared for wilderness camping. But no, we had chairs, showers, a braai and cold beers. What a great start! We were staying the night right at the bottom of a little cliff we had to climb first thing in the morning, and reports were it was going to be a long hot day, so we all crawled into our sleeping bags early.
After breakfast and a cup, well a few cups, of coffee, we headed out. Out and up. We were with a knowledgeable crew, so along the way, there was lots of looking at trees, which doubled as points of rest. Once at the plateau, we followed a stretch of riverine forest right into the Leshiba Wilderness. Chance of rhino here, so we were all on the lookout, but no luck. Unfortunately, the heat took its toll on some of us, and we had to make a detour to the Leshiba Lodge as a bailout point for them. This was a bit of a bonus though, because the lodge is built in amazing Venda style with lots of traditional and famous art pieces. That, and fresh, cold water!
Continuing on our way, waving at a few curious giraffes, we went on, crossing into yet another reserve, Sigurwana. It was late, we had done about 16km and we could practically smell the campsite. However, a bit too excited, we had landed on tomorrow’s trail, which we followed for a few extra kms. After backtracking we made it to the campsite, exhausted but content. Once again we found ourselves unexpectedly on a proper campsite, beneath a bunch of magnificent waterberries. While I love a dip in a refreshingly cold natural pool after a hike, I didn’t complain about the hot shower here. After food and conversation, chocolate and a nightcap, it was time for some shuteye.
Morning again. Coffee and rusks, breakfast and packing up. A lot of kms to cover. Yesterday we saw the landscape change from thicket, through forest, to grassland and woodland; today we were heading for a great Yellowwood forest and more. You can’t really see it when you’re on top, but we were walking all along the mountain range, with cliffs on the sides, through little valleys and ridges. The Yellowwood forest was spectacular, and even when we had passed the forest, you could still see giants of yellowwoods sticking out of the canopy all over the place. Next stop: the highest peak of the Soutpansberg, Lajuma! This would also be the end of the hike, as right at the bottom of the peak would be our ticket home, a parked Land Cruiser. It was a sight for sore eyes, and feet. The climbing of Lajuma was optional though, and since it has been two long days in the sun, and we were nearing the hottest point of the day… of course we had to go up there! Well some of us, but it is not everyday you get to see both Botswana and Zimbabwe to the north, and Blouberg and Makgabeng in the west. The cherry on top of a great weekend!
Marcel Span MCSA Limpopo Chair
