The Wolkberg Traverse, one of our local classics. Four days of hiking and camping in the wilderness, with a final night at the Wolkberg MCSA hut, in the shadow of Serala peak. What more could you ask for? After working out the logistics, we met up at Lekgalameetse gate on Thursday morning. There was six of us, Bronwyn, Claudette, Tadgh, Chris, Marcel and our hike leader Ray, plus two drivers, Vince and James, who were kind enough to drop us off and drive the vehicles back to Haenertsburg, our end destination.
It is always a treat to drive up the Orrie Baragwanath pass, through the Downs, right up to the bottom of the ridge, our starting point. A quick bag check, a ‘before’ photo and up we go!
The trip started well, with an unidentified snake scurrying away, a juvenile Flapneck chameleon doing its little jiggly walk, and a bigger ‘surprise’: a rather angry spitting Cobra, raising up and showing its hood. Everyone remained calm though, the little snake included, and we all went our own way. We continued along the ridge and cut through a grassy neck, where Tadgh found an old Lasher panga; could be useful! For lunch we decided on a small detour to the edge of the escarpment, at a perfect spot with a view and just enough shade on an otherwise exposed mountainside. The walking pace had been good, so we had plenty of time to make it to our campsite. Following the ridgeline, we made for the gap between two peaks. The campsite was close, but the temptation to bag another peak was too great, so we decided to climb Marake, at 1824m high. Not a major climb, but the view was well worth it. From there we could see where this weekend would take us: our campsite just below us, the trail flowing through the grasslands, and the Devil’s Knuckles and Serala peak looming in the North. From up here, you really get the feeling you are in it. In the wilderness, the remoteness, into the natural way of things. After this bit of introspection, we headed down, picked up our bags at the bottom and headed down our final descent of the day. After spending the day in exposed grassy mountains, it was nice to see the stream still flowing, right next to a small bit of forest. More importantly, the stream turns into a small waterfall and a pool, before plummeting off the edge. The edge of the world, overlooking the lowveld. Time for a well-earned swim after a day in the sun! Other than a few too many leeches, it was brilliant and refreshing. After all this leisure, we still had time for tea/soup, and a little excursion into the forest. Chris had made a nice Stonehenge circle for chairs, and when darkness fell, even had brought some candles for ambiance. Nothing tastes better than a simple meal after a day of carrying a heavy backpack over the mountains, as does the dessert made with chocolate, and a sip of OBS/Whisky for some. Time for bed!
Day two started with sunrise coffee at the edge, but it quickly turned misty and windy, foreshadowing for what was to come the next day. Packing up was done quickly and we went on our way. While we would normally we had a view of the Knuckles to give us direction, the mist made us rely mostly on GPS to find our way. Our aim was a conspicuous little grassy hill, looking all friendly but at the same time quite intimidating if taken on straight up. We rather easily managed to find it, and after a quick break at the bottom, we started to ascend. There was a solid path on the sides, which made quick work of the climb. After a somewhat creative route along the ridge, we found the path down to the valley. The sun was slowly starting to poke its rays through the clouds. By the time we hit the Thabina stream at the bottom, it was sunny. Right on time for lunch by the river. Refreshed after lunch, we headed up and made quick work of another steep climb up to the plateau where we would camp. There it was, Thabina forest and towering above it, the highest peak of the Knuckels, exactly the point we’d be crossing tomorrow. This was also the last time we actually got to see the peak, as the Wolkberg started to live up to its name henceforth. After setting up camp, we headed for the stream and were blessed with a last bit of sunshine. While not mandatory, it made the dip in the perfectly sized pools a lot more pleasant. The comforting jump in the cool water, soothing the muscles was great, but perhaps the nap that some people took afterwards was even better. We’ve been motoring along at a good pace again, so there was plenty of time to relax. However, closer to dinner time, it had become misty and windy, and dark clouds were rolling up the plateau. We huddled up on a rocky outcrop next to camp, found a nice spot to cook, and made ourselves each a feast. Conditions weren’t exactly pleasant to sit outside; a sign that it was time for an early night.
Most of the night it was windy and rainy, but in the morning…well it was still quite wet and miserable. No matter though, adventure awaits us. Today would be a big day with two serious climbs and a somewhat precarious downclimb, especially in the rain. Breakfast was made individually, in front of our own tents for a change, to try and stay as dry as we could before packing up. We donned our rain clothes and set of: straight up to the highest peak of the Knuckles. No path to follow, no vision of where we were going, just an uphill climb following the GPX.
Perhaps it was the wind driving us up, or perhaps we just wanted to stay warm, but we made the peak in no time at all. Unfortunately, with vision not exceeding 10m, there was no view to be had. We didn’t waste much time at the top, and started looking for the cairn marking the downclimb. Here’s where it gets fun. There is not so much of a trail down, more of a scramble with lots of loose rocks. Luckily, the rain hadn’t made it much worse. Just take it slow and be careful. Looking back at the photos, we all look a bit miserable, but in fact, it was a great time nonetheless.
Rocks gave way to slopey grass, before we finally hit the forest, the magical Wonderwoud. We didn’t have the correct GPX for this, so once again, it turned into a bit of bundu bashing to find the saddle in the middle of the forest. What’s next you ask? The second big climb of the day, up Kruger’s Nose. It starts as a nice forest trail but quickly becomes a steep hike up, then the forest opens up on the sides and you know you’ve gained some altitude. Right then, you step out into the openness. The forest is behind you now, and you look out into the valley to your right, with nothing but rock above you. And that is where we were going, up and up.
This makes it sound more dramatic than it really is, as it is a fun scramble up, with lots of handholds and ropes to assist you. Just remember not to trust the ropes, as we found some to be tied to Aloes, and another one was tied to a dead, shaky tree. We removed that one as it was doing more harm than good. After a final push, we hit the top, but again, no view. This third day was supposed to be about the views, but the stubborn Wolkberg needed to remind us how it got its name. No point to mope, only more reason to return! We were almost on the home stretch now. In the distance, through the fog we could hear Cleopatra’s falls, but it would stay hidden, same for the Horns. Next stop: the Wolkberg hut with its lovely warm hearth.
While we had an amazing day out, it was good to take off the wet gear and shoes, and sit by the fire to warm up. However, being wet and cold already, might as well take a dip in the hidden pool at the bottom, a place that reminds of Lothlorien from Lord of the Rings. The afternoon was spent in the hut, drinking tea and going through old MCSA journals, while the weather outside was actually clearing up.
Our final day started as usual: coffee, breakfast, packing up the bags. We cleaned up the hut and then normally, we would jump in the car to drive down. However, since the road is in pretty bad condition, we ‘had to’ hike down along the Trout stream to the pickup point. Not quite a punishment because what a lovely hike through the forest it always is.
Soon after setting out, we hit the famous ‘bumslides’: time for the second swim of the day for most, while a few of us tried out the bumslides themselves. The name seemed to be somewhat… generous, as it wasn’t so much a slippery waterslide, but more like an actual piece of hard rock that it was. It would not be repeated that day.
The trail continued and we enjoyed every bit of it. Waterfalls, views, trees, a curious Knysna Turaco, some distant parrot noises. All in all a beautiful way down the Wolkberg. The sight of the car was welcome, but also sad, as it meant our hike had come to an end and it was time to get back to civilization.
Thank you Ray for being our fearless leader, the rest of the group, Bronwyn, Tadgh, Claudette, Chris and Marcel, and the people that made it logistically possible, Vince, James and Michi. What an epic way to spend the long weekend.
Written by: Marcel Span
